The History: The “Burgundy” of Teas
Qimen Hongcha, better known in the West as Keemun, is widely considered the most prestigious red tea in China. It was first created in 1875 by a failed civil servant named Yu Ganchen, who traveled to Fujian to learn the secrets of red tea and brought them back to his home in Qimen, Anhui.
Within a few years, Keemun became a favorite of the British aristocracy and remains the primary component of many premium English Breakfast blends. In the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition, it won a gold medal, cementing its status as one of the world’s three most fragrant teas (alongside Darjeeling and Ceylon). It is often called the “Burgundy of teas” for its complex, wine-like depth.
Geography: The Yellow Mountains of Anhui
Qimen County is located in the southern part of Anhui Province, surrounded by the foothills of the famous Huangshan (Yellow Mountain).
- Terroir: The region is heavily forested with a cool, misty climate and high rainfall. The soil is slightly acidic and rich in organic matter.
- Biodiversity: The lush environment and high altitude contribute to the tea’s unique chemical profile, particularly its high levels of geraniol, which gives Keemun its signature “rose” and “orchid” fragrance.
Decoding the Grades
Keemun grading can be complex, involving both traditional Chinese and Western export standards.
1. Traditional Grades
- Keemun Hao Ya (A/B): The highest grade, made primarily from tiny, tender buds and leaves. “Hao Ya A” is the absolute peak of Keemun.
- Keemun Mao Feng: A whole-leaf variety that is less processed (not cut), offering a more floral and delicate profile.
- Keemun Gongfu: The traditional “workmanlike” tea, finely cut and highly oxidized for a bold, classic flavor.
2. The “Keemun Fragrance”
Regardless of grade, all authentic Keemun should possess the “Qimen Xiang”—a unique combination of rose, dried plum, and a hint of smoky pine.
How to Identify Quality
A high-quality Keemun is refined and elegant, never harsh or overly smoky.
| Feature | High-Quality (Premium) | Lower-Quality (Mass Market) |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Tightly twisted, fine, black-blue leaves; uniform in size. | Broken, grayish-brown leaves with dust and stems. |
| Aroma | “Keemun Fragrance”—rose, orchid, honey, and a hint of unsweetened cocoa. | Sour, flat, or like wet cardboard. |
| Liquor | Clear, brilliant ruby red; bright orange “ring” at the rim. | Dull, murky, or muddy brown. |
| Taste | Smooth, velvety, with notes of stone fruit (plum/peach) and a clean finish. | Harshly astringent, bitter, or acidic. |
Reputable Brands & Where to Buy
Because it is so popular, much of what is labeled “Keemun” in supermarkets is actually low-grade red tea from other provinces.
Reputable Specialized Brands:
- Keemun Tea Group: The descendant of the original state-run factories in Qimen.
- International-Friendly Online Shops:
- The Tea Hong: Offers several grades of highly curated Keemun, including the elusive Hao Ya A.
- Teavivre: A great source for Keemun Mao Feng and various Gongfu grades.
- Seven Cups: Excellent for learning about the specific history and sourcing of Anhui teas.
- Meimei Fine Teas: Often carries award-winning, small-batch Keemun.
Keemun is a “gentleman’s tea”—sophisticated, balanced, and timeless. It is best enjoyed plain to appreciate its floral complexity, though it is the only Chinese red tea that can truly stand up to a dash of milk if you prefer a traditional Western style.