The History: The Frozen Summit
Dong Ding (literally “Frozen Summit”) is perhaps the most famous of all Taiwanese oolongs. Its origins date back to the mid-19th century when a scholar brought 12 tea seedlings from the Wuyi Mountains in Fujian to the Lugu area of Taiwan.
The name “Frozen Summit” refers to the steep, slippery slopes of the mountain where the tea was grown—local farmers had to “freeze” their toes to grip the muddy path as they climbed. This tea pioneered the traditional medium-roast, medium-oxidation style that defined Taiwanese tea for generations before the modern trend toward “high mountain” light oolongs.
Geography: The Mist of Lugu
The heart of Dong Ding production is Lugu Township in Nantou County, Central Taiwan.
- Elevation: Typically 600–1,000 meters. While not as high as “High Mountain” (Gao Shan) teas, the unique soil and constant afternoon mist of Lugu create a concentrated, robust flavor.
- The Soil: Red clay soil that is rich in iron, which contributes to the tea’s deep mineral backbone.
- Heritage: The tea is still produced using traditional rolling and roasting techniques that have been passed down for over 150 years.
Decoding the Styles: Traditional vs. Competition
In Taiwan, Dong Ding is the star of the world’s largest tea competition.
1. Traditional Dong Ding
Slow-roasted over charcoal for several days.
- Profile: Amber liquor, nutty, honeyed, with a distinct “charred” but sweet finish.
- Vibe: Heavy, comforting, and great for multiple steepings.
2. Modern/Competition Style
Often lighter in roast to highlight the floral notes of the leaf.
- Profile: Golden-yellow liquor, more orchid-like, but with a lingering toasted aftertaste.
- Vibe: Elegant and complex.
How to Identify Quality
A true Dong Ding should have a “honey-sweet” roasted character, never an ashy or burnt taste.
| Feature | High-Quality (Premium) | Lower-Quality (Mass Market) |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Tightly rolled “hemispherical” beads; dark green-brown. | Loose, uneven rolls or many stems; grayish-black. |
| Aroma | Toasted nuts, honey, dried fruit, and a hint of orchid. | Burnt charcoal, stale hay, or no aroma. |
| Liquor | Clear, bright amber or golden-orange; viscous. | Dull yellow or murky brown. |
| Taste | “Hou Yun” (throat rhyme)—a sweet, lingering finish; thick body. | Thin, watery, or harshly bitter. |
Reputable Brands & Where to Buy
Genuine Lugu Dong Ding is distinct from generic “Taiwan Oolong” grown in other regions.
Reputable Specialized Brands:
- Lugu Farmers Association: They run the famous competitions and offer certified, graded teas.
- International-Friendly Online Shops:
- Eco-Cha: Based in Taiwan, they specialize in sourcing traditional Lugu oolongs directly from farmers.
- Taiwan Sourcing: Offers a wide range of authentic charcoal-roasted and competition-grade teas.
- The Tea Hong: Excellent for highly curated, traditionally roasted oolongs.
- Floating Leaves: Based in Seattle but with deep ties to Taiwan; great for education and high-end sourcing.
Dong Ding is the “steak” of Taiwanese teas—bold, savory, and satisfying. If you are new to oolongs, a medium-roast Dong Ding is the perfect introduction to the world of roasted teas.