Tea Lab

The Titans of Tea: A Guide to Pu-erh’s Legendary Factories and Artisans

For an amateur tea lover, the world of Pu-erh can feel like a library without a catalog. You see four-digit codes, colorful wrappers, and varying price tags that range from “daily drinker” to “luxury car.” To understand Pu-erh, you must understand the Producers.

In the tea world, we divide the landscape into the “State-Owned Giants” (the architects of modern tea) and the “Prestige Private Labels” (the guardians of the mountains).

1. The Big Four: The Architects of the Industry

These are the “Old Guard.” Originally state-run, these factories created the standards, the recipes, and the very technology we use to enjoy Pu-erh today.

Menghai Tea Factory (Dayi / Taetea) | 勐海茶厂 (大益)

Established in 1940, Menghai is the “Wharton School” of Pu-erh. Its history is one of survival and innovation; during WWII, the factory was evacuated and nearly lost to the tides of war before being rebuilt to become the industry’s heart. Its greatest legacy was born in 1973, when its masters co-invented the “Wet Piling” technique, effectively birthing Ripe (Shou) Pu-erh. Today, Menghai is the gold standard, a brand so dominant that its releases are traded like blue-chip stocks.

Key Products:

Xiaguan Tea Factory | 下关茶厂

Based in the windy city of Dali, Xiaguan is the rugged soul of the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Historically, its location served as the gateway to Tibet. Because the journey was long and the climate harsh, Xiaguan specialized in compressing tea into tight “domes” (Tuocha) that could survive months on a mule’s back. This history created the famous “Xiaguan Smoke”—a flavor profile born from traditional drying fires that has become a beloved signature for collectors worldwide.

Key Products:

Kunming Tea Factory (CNNP / Zhongcha) | 昆明茶厂 (中茶)

This was the administrative headquarters of the tea world. During the mid-20th century, CNNP was the state monopoly, and all other factories reported to it. Its legacy is one of “Bureaucratic Excellence.” They produced the legendary “Red Mark” cakes of the 1950s—the “Mona Lisas” of tea that now auction for six figures. To drink a CNNP cake is to taste the political and industrial history of 20th-century China.

Key Products:

Haiwan Tea Factory (Lao Tong Zhi) | 海湾茶业 (老同志)

Founded in 1999 by Mr. Zou Bingliang, known as the “Father of Ripe Pu-erh,” Haiwan represents a return to roots. After retiring from Menghai, Zou wanted to create a brand that was “for the people.” The name Lao Tong Zhi (Old Comrade) evokes a nostalgic sense of shared history and reliability. Its culture is defined by high-quality, accessible tea that avoids the “speculative bubble” of luxury brands.

Key Products:

2. The Prestige Producers: The Terroir Artisans

While the Big Four focus on “The Blend,” these private producers rose to prominence by focusing on “The Mountain.”

Chen Sheng Hao | 陈升号

This brand redefined luxury in 2007. By signing exclusive contracts with the village of Lao Banzhang, they turned a humble mountain into a global powerhouse. Their culture is one of “The King”—they focus on power, prestige, and the “Banzhang Spirit.” They were the first to treat Pu-erh like a Grand Cru vineyard, moving away from factory codes and toward village names.

Key Products:

Fu Yuan Chang | 福元昌

Historically known as the “General” of the Hao Ji era, Fu Yuan Chang represents the peak of Yiwu mountain power. The brand was famously revived to capture the spirit of the late 19th-century private tea houses. Their culture is defined by “The Spirit of the Wild”—focusing on unrefined, high-energy Raw Pu-erh from the deep forests of Yiwu and Bulang. They are the choice for those who seek “broad-shouldered” teas with immense aging potential and a rugged, masculine character.

Key Products:

Song Ping Hao | 宋聘号

If Chen Sheng Hao is the modern King, Song Ping Hao is the “Scholar-Gentry” of the tea world. As one of the most prestigious names from the Republican era (1912–1949), the brand was synonymous with the highest level of refinement in Yiwu. The modern revival continues this legacy, focusing on elegance, complex layering, and a “literati” aesthetic. Their culture is one of historical continuity, treating each cake as a piece of living history.

Key Products:

Tong Qing Hao | 同庆号

Established in 1736, Tong Qing Hao is often called the “Standard-Bearer” of Pu-erh history. Their famous “Dragon and Horse” logo is one of the oldest and most recognizable trademarks in the tea industry. The brand is celebrated for its “Royal Elegance”—teas that are balanced, smooth, and possess a regal complexity. Modern Tong Qing Hao continues to emphasize the traditional blending techniques that made it a favorite of the Qing Imperial court.

Key Products:

Bao He Xiang | 宝和祥

Founded by the former Menghai Tea Factory technical director, Master Li Wenhua, Bao He Xiang represents the bridge between the “Big Factory” era and the “Prestige Boutique” era. The name pays homage to the Hao tradition while utilizing modern blending mastery. Their culture is one of “Technical Elegance”—focusing on complex, master-crafted blends that prioritize multi-layered flavor profiles and exceptional aging stability.

Key Products:

Lancang Ancient Tea | 澜沧古茶

Led by the legendary “Tea Mama,” Ms. Du Chunyi, this brand is the spiritual guardian of Jingmai Mountain. Its history is deeply intertwined with the ethnic Bulang and Dai people who have farmed tea for over a millennium. The culture here is maternal and respectful of nature, viewing the ancient tea forest as a living ancestor. Their teas are celebrated for their “Orchid Aroma,” a scent unique to the Jingmai terroir.

Key Products:

Mengku Rongshi | 勐库戎氏

Representing the wilder Lincang region, the Rong family has been the “Protector of the Mother Trees” for generations. They were the first to bring the legendary “Rock Sugar” sweetness of Bingdao tea to the world stage. Their culture is one of Lincang pride—focusing on the high-altitude, fragrant, and slightly “wilder” personality of northern Yunnan.

Key Products:

Which Path Will You Choose?

The Collector’s Path (Big Factory)The Connoisseur’s Path (Private/Boutique)
Focuses on Consistency and Aging Value.Focuses on Terroir and Unique Flavor.
Uses the 4-Digit Recipe System.Uses Mountain and Village names.
Tastes like: History, smoke, and tradition.Tastes like: Flowers, honey, and the forest.